[travels] cuba: tobacco, rum, and sugar

Brian and I unknowingly eeked in a timely trip to Cuba, returning stateside the very week Trump announced he would be reinstating travel and commercial restrictions eased by the Obama administration.  While tourism was never an approved purpose for travel from US to Cuba, the 'Educational Activities' visa category afforded us great flexibility to see and explore under Obama-era rules.

We followed a fairly standard itinerary that allowed me to knock off a few more World Heritage Sites!  We flew into Havana, explored caves and biked in the beautiful Vinales Valley, and visited sugar plantations and hiked in the Trinidad area.

First a couple of notes about travelling in Cuba:

There are two currencies used in Cuba, the CUC (pegged to the USD and used by tourists) and the CUP (used by locals).  Though the 1 CUC is equivalent to 1 USD, there is a 10% exchange fee for USD, which is not levied on other currencies.  Do your math to determine whether you should change your USD to Euros or Pounds to change to the CUC.

Bring all the money that you plan on using in cash.  At least when we went, we could not use US Credit cards, ATM cards, checks, etc.  Worse comes to worse, we've been told that it is possible to receive wire transfers; HOWEVER, the recipient needs to be a Cuban national.  

We booked lodging using AirBNB before arriving in the country for all but our final three days, for on the order of $15-20/night.  I unfortunately did not do my homework and assumed my buying power in other categories (food, transportation, activities) would stack up comparably.  Dining out in Cuba was cheaper than dining out in Boston, but on the order of 50%.  Drinks, beers and cocktails, however, were very affordable!  Taxis in Havana were as expensive as taxis in Boston, we found the tricycle motorcabs to be cost-effective.  

We found taxi collectivos (shared taxis) to be a cost effective way to travel between cities.  For just a couple bucks per person less than the state operated buses, you can get door to door service on your schedule.

While we opted to plan our own trip instead of booking a tour, we did find that certain day tours stitched together related sites in a very sensible way at a reasonable cost.  We also found that tour drivers were willing to do the same tours off the books, once you found the right one.

Stumbled out of the restaurant after the waiter handed me a BOTTLE of Havana Club rum for my DIY pina colada.

Vinales by Bike

First we headed west by taxi collectivo, to Vinales Valley.  Vinales, surrounded by mountains, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  The valley is known for its agricultural production, particularly that of tobacco.  We rented bikes from a friend of our AirBNB host for $15/day and biked through the countryside.  The first night we visited the more touristy Cueva del Indio, where the walking trail stops and you finish your tour by boat.

The next day we filled up on a breakfast of eggs and fresh fruit smoothie before starting out for the Prehistoric caves and Cuevas de Santo Tomas.  

We were outfitted with helmets and headlamps to explore Saint Thomas cave.  Our tourguide pointed out all sorts of wildlife, played musical stalactites, and we didn't lose anybody.  Great success.

While the beauty of the valley is striking, it was the beauty of the people that left the deepest impression.  Our most memorable experience was when I got a flat tire and we stopped by a residence offering up their vistas for all to enjoy.  Our new friend went above and beyond, pedaling back into town, during the hottest time of day, to fetch a pump.  While we waited, we chatted with his wife in broken Spanish, about why she loved her home and their pace of life.  

Beautiful vistas from the home of a friendly couple.

Trinidad by Taxi

Our second destination was also another UNESCO.  Trinidad, together with nearby Valle de los Ingenios, was built up around the wealth generated by the sugar trade in the 18th century.  We were able to visit the famous Manaca Iznaga plantation and the San Isidro de los Destiladeros on a taxi tour.  We enjoyed walking around the plantation, but seeing the slave quarters and learning about their living situations and culture left an impact.  We enjoyed conversing with our tour guide, teaching him idioms and chatting about politics.

View from Iznaga Tower, built to watch slaves during the sugar trade era.

The heart of Trinidad has a host of carefully restored buildings.  The meandering paths, lined with colorful houses, lead to a beautiful town square and the musical steps.  In the town center, you can also climb the tower for sweeping views of the city and the valley.

Back to Havana

No Trip to Cuba is complete without spending time in Old Havana.

Broken-down car in front of the Capital Building

Looking back on Old Havana from the western side of the Harbor.

Drinks with the Father of the Daquiri, Ernest Heminway, at the Floridita.

View of Havana from Castillo de la Real Fuerza- another World Heritage Site!

Other things we did

1. Rode a classic 1950's Chevrolet with red leather seats and an odometer registering 900,000+ miles from Trinidad to Cienfuegos.

2. Visited the historic center of Cienfuegos.

3. Personal salsa lessons in Vinales, followed by an evening of live music and dancing

[ceramics] spring show

If you've ever stepped off the T at Brookline Village, you've likely walked past Feet of Clay studio.  It's unassuming storefront is home to a host of wonderfully talented artists and exceptional facilities.  FOC is a small potters cooperative that brings together people of all ages and skill levels.  

For the past year, I had the pleasure of being an intern.  During my tenure, I have learned the behind-the-scenes skill sets required to keep the the studio running; from glaze-making to pugging (recycling clay) to kiln loading.  Though I'd taken a couple of ceramics classes in high school and during college, learning these new skill sets augmented my appreciation for the craft.

I was very excited to participate in the FOC spring show.  Below, are some pictures from my collection.

Hand-poured Candle Collection.  Left: Bloom.  Right: Flora

Planter.  Finding New Heights.

Hand-poured Candle Collection.  Left: Blue Skies Ahead.  Right: Climb Every Mountain.

Doggie Bowl: For Henry

[photos] illuminus

Spent more time photographing the impromptu performers at Illuminus than that actual light installations.
The exhibits were definitely some very creative uses of light and technology, and reminiscent of products from MIT's Media Lab.

[travels] san diego, joshua tree, and palm springs

On my most recent trip to southern california, Brian and I rounded out our socal bucket-list by hitting up san diego, joshua tree national park, and palm springs, all in one jam-packed weekend.

San Diego and La Jolla

We started off the day early to catch a 9am sea kayaking tour in La Jolla.  In 2 hours, we saw 4 aquatic biomes, 5 caves, and many many sea lions!  I enjoyed learning about the geology of the area, as well as how a certain cave was used during the Prohibition Era.

There was no shortage of sea lions on the tour.  My favorite were the fuzzy baby sea lions, but the big ol' males, who thought they owned the rocks, were very entertaining.

Feeling productive after a morning of kayaking, we made our way to San Diego to see the sights at Balboa Park.  Unfortunately, by that time, it was already unbearably hot.  I enjoyed the gardens and shaded walkways of the Park.  There was plenty of beautiful architecture as well.  After Balboa Park, we walked around the historic Gaslight District and strolled around the harbor.  Early evening, we returned to La Jolla to stroll around the bay and the boardwalk.  The ocean breeze was a relief.

Coachella Valley, Indio, and Joshua Tree National Park

Driving through the mountain pass into Coachella Valley is a beautiful drive at night, although I'm sure it's also beautiful during the day.  We stayed with a lovely couple and their two pooches in Indio valley.  In the morning, we made our way to Joshua Tree National Park.  I enjoyed the Lost Horse Hike, which takes you to an abandoned gold mine.  I also enjoyed the Hidden Valley nature walk and the vista from Keys View. 

You can see Coachella Valley, the Andrea Fault and the San Bernardino Mountains from Keys Views

Joshua Trees are also quite lovely, especially with the rocky mountain the background

[travels] londonium

Traveling for work lends itself to a work hard, play hard experience.  Working 4 hours ahead of my Boston colleagues made for long days in the office, however weekends were for the taking.  I enjoyed living and working in the heart of the City of London.  I loved the energy of the historic neighborhood. Cappuccinos and chocolate croissants quickly became my favorite at the Polo Bar, which was conveniently open 24 hours a day.

Office located just left of the Gherkin

Weekend 1- Saturday- Following in the steps of Royalty

I made the short walk from my apartment to Monument and then on to London Bridge.  I was hoping to find Borough Market, but a quick left left me on The Queen's Walk.  Not losing any time, I recalculated and continued down Queen's Walk, along the River Thame's.  As I strolled toward the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, I admired the statues and interesting bridges along the path.  I continued down to a quaint cobble-stone street and enjoyed some pastries for breakfast.  Not wanting to backtrack, I took my first ride on a double-decker bus, across the Waterloo bridge, to the theater area.  I walked by the Royal Oprah house and stumbled into an artisan's market at Covent Gardens.  

From there, I continued onto Trafalgar Square, where I made a stop at The National Gallery.  From there, I continued on to the Royal Parks.  I started with St. James Garden and walked along the lake admiring the beautiful blooms.  I peeked into the gates of Buckingham Palace before continuing on through Green Park.  I crossed a hazardous intersection to get to Hyde Park.  All that walking built up my appetite, so I stopped for a bite to eat at the Serpentine Cafe.  I enjoyed a mushroom pizza and a small pot of tea, while people-watching.  Parents with their young children peddling the swan boats, couples strolling hand-in-hand.  Life was moving at the perfect pace.

After lunch, I ventured off the royal path to Harrod's.  It was, after all, listed as a major site on all the tour buses.  I did not have the patience to venture beyond the first floor, but I did spend most of my time in the chocolate, tea and coffee room.  After purchasing some tea for my dad, I felt that I had gotten my Harrod's experience.  

I made my way back to the Serpentine pathway, where I continued on to Kensington Gardens.  On the way, I saw the Princess Diana memorial and park.  I walked to Kensington Palace, but alas, did not spot any royals.  Pooped, I could not get myself to Regent's Park.  I would have to do that another day.

Weekend 1- Sunday- Sailing down the River Thames

My second free day in London, I splurged on a river rover pass.  After grabbing my usual cappuccino and chocolate croissant, I took the double decker to the Tower of London.  Growing up, I loved reading about the the intrigue of the Tudor family and the accomplishments of Queen Elizabeth, but I could not justify the expense to go into the tower.  

Instead, I boarded the river rover toward Greenwich.  It was a warm, sunny day.  Perfect weather for sitting atop the river boat, listening to the crew share stories about the river and landmarks along the route.  I saw many old pubs (which may or may not have been inhabited by famous authors), Execution Dock, and old ports.  

Once at Greenwich, I saw the University of Greenwich, which had magnificent architecture.  There, I also admired the painted hall.  But what I was most excited for was the Prime Meridian.   I made the uphill trek to the Royal Observatory to straddle the Prime Meridian.

Straddling the Prime Meridian.

Other things worth seeing at Greenwich include the British Maritime Museum.  I thought the exhibits were very well done.  The spiral staircase at the Queen's House was beautiful.  The Greenwich market was packed with beautiful crafts and the most delicious food.

Queen's House Spiral Staircase

After getting my fill of maritime history at Greenwich, I hopped back aboard the river rover and made my way down to Westminster.  There I saw the Parliament buildings, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben, the New Scotland Yard, the London Eye, among other things.

Obligatory picture of Big Ben and a double-decker bus

From here, I made my way to Trafalgar Square for the St. Patrick's Day celebration.  The crowds made it difficult to get to the concert area, but once I did, I had the pleasure of hearing traditional Irish music, as well as covers by the Late Late Night Band.  From here, I walked to Somerset House, crossed the bridge, and walked down the embankment by the National Theater and the Globe Theater.

Weekend 2- Saturday- More Ancient History

The second weekend I skipped my cappuccino and chocolate croissant and headed straight for Borough Market.  I was not disappointed.  There was stall upon stall of delicious food, both local and exotic.  I settled on a vegetable stuffed pie with a side of mushy peas, which was all quite delicious.  After breakfast, I took the tube to Green Park.  After pushing through hordes of people, I realized that I had made perfect timing to catch the changing of the guards.  I made my way to the front and watched the display.  I left with some time to spare to get to Victoria Station, where I was trying to catch a tour to Stonehedge.  Unfortunately for me, the ticketing line was long and incredibly slow moving.  By the time I made it to the counter, my tour had supposedly left and I could no longer purchase a ticket.  The departure gate was within sight, and the tour was plainly behind schedule, but there was no arguing with the ticket agent.  I rushed over to the tour guide, forked over some cash, and sure enough, I was on the tour.

I travelled back in time to prehistory.  Stonehenge was a marvelous sight and I marveled at the prehistoric accomplishment.  I enjoyed learning about the engineering feat, but also the mystery and intrigue that still shrouds the ruins.  The weather patterns were quite bizarre during my visit.  The bus ride to Stonehenge consisted of on-and-off downpour.  Upon arrival at Stonehenge, there was hail on the ground.  And by the end of our tour, we were leaving behind a double rainbow.  Our tour guide was a rasta; he was pretty cool and played awesome music.

Stonehenge

Other Highlights:

Shopping on Oxford Street- large department stores as well as trendy boutiques

Carnaby Street

Getting lost at King's Cross looking for Platform 9 3/4

Trying Iron Bru

Leicester Square at night

[travels] arizona

So it's been about 15 years since I've been back in the American Southwest.  I have fond memories of growing up in Albuquerque, NM so I have been looking for an excuse to go back.  Spring Break this year was supposed to have taken me to the Grand Canyon, but that gave way to other adventures in California.  When our model vendor announced that they were hosting a conference in Tucson, I jumped at the opportunity to go for work.  I spent a total of 3 days in Tucson and 2 days in Phoenix.

Tucson- Tucson Omni National Golf Resort and Pima Air and Space Museum
I spent three nights at this fantastic resort.  My days were spent at the conference, which was fine because it was 90+ and very arid every day.  At night we had the opportunity to see the Pima Air and Space Museum, home to hundreds of amazing airplanes, each with an interesting story.  I had a fantastic dinner of fried shrimp with a cocktail sauce that had a hint of wasabi at Bob's Steakhouse.  This restaurant, with an unassuming name, is actually one of the top-rated steak houses.  But the best part of the business trip was playing 9-hole, 4 person scramble on a golf course that once hosted a PGA tour event.  The sun sets quickly in Arizona, and it was amazing to hear all the wildlife that comes out when the earth cools.  I even saw a coyote!

Camelback Mountain- Cholla Trail
After the business trip, we drove back to Phoenix.  On Saturday, Brian and I woke up before dawn to hike up Camelback mountain.  We started up Cholla Trail just before 6 am with a surprisingly large number of locals, who we discovered are very active.  The first few hundred feet consisted of pebbley and sandy terrain and brought us amazing views of the city.  Towards the end, the terrain got very rocky and steep, which necessitated climbing with both your hands and legs.

Beautiful view from the top of Camelback Mountain.

Halloween Spooktacular
That evening, Brian and I visited the Halloween Spooktacular at Salt River Fields.  One of my fondest memories growing up was attending the New Mexico Balloon Fiesta.  While, I could not make it to the large balloon fiesta, the Halloween Spooktacular featured many hot air balloons in addition to many vendors and a haunted house!  We showed up with 'The Office' themed costumes.

Three hole punch Jim and Pam

Hot Air Balloon Ride

And of course the even that I was most excited for was our Rainbow Ryder's sunrise hot air balloon ride.  Again, we woke up before dawn to drive to their offices.  From there we drove to our setup place in the desert, just north of the city.  The area was bustling with groups setting up their hot air balloons.  We got to witness all the steps required to set up the balloon from unloading the basket, to unfurling the balloon, to inflating it, and raising it.  After we all climbed in, we were off for our hourlong ride where we rose to a maximum altitude of 4000 ft.  We saw mountains, and highways, and tiny cacti.  It was interesting to see the trees lined along the areas where water flows during the rare rainfall.

View of the Arizona desert from our hot air balloon

Other Highlights Include

1. Brunch at Wy Knot bakery.  I had a delicious savory and sweet pancake with red rice and Brian had a delectable stuffed french toast.

2. Working at the Phoenix Public Library.  It was a very interesting building both inside and out.  We also enjoyed decorating skulls for Dia de los Muertos.

3. Downtown Scottsdale and the waterfront area.  It was an interesting walk down their 5th avenue which featured many souvenir/art shops.  We ate at a fantastic restaurant called Olive & Ivy Restaurant & Marketplace

4. Walking around the Dia de los Muertos celebration by the Mesa Arts Center.  There were wonderful art demonstrations from ceramics to glass blowing.  Again, we tried our art skills at decorating skulls.  We also visited the Modern Art museum which featured many local artists.  My favorite gallery had social commentary pieces that referenced Renaissance styles.

5. Dinner at Luci Healthy Marketplace.  We had purchased a living social deal for a place that happened to be closed on Sunday.  It was unfortunate that we would not use our voucher, but we were lucky to discover this gem.  They had delicious healthy meals and we got to watch our Red Sox on TV.

[travels] seattle

I had always been warned about the weather in Seattle, especially by the end of summer.  In anticipation for my trip, I checked the weather, packed my raincoat, and prepared for the rain.  Fortunately, the deluge held out long enough for me to experience the beauty of the city without having to jump through puddles.

Pikes Place Market
I have always loved the energy of markets places and the excitement of discovering a new food item or piece of art.  I love the weekly farmers markets, to the seasonal artisans markets, to the more famous, well-established market places like Reading Terminal Market in Philly to the Lexington Market in Baltimore.  Needless to say, Pikes Place Market was numero uno on my list of things to see in Seattle.  I was not disappointed.  I fell in love with the brilliant bouquets of beautifully arranged flowers and jewelry inspired by the local heritage.  Pikes place also offers foods from diverse countries (we ate Russian piroshky and Turkish delight).   And of course, I visited the original Starbucks.

Proof I visited the first Starbucks

View of waterfront from Pikes Place

Gum wall.  Pretty colors, but mostly just gross.

Seattle Center
Many of the major sights in Seattle are packed together at Seattle Center.  Here you'll find the theater, the Bill and Melinda Gates foundation, Chihuly Museum, EMP museum, and the Space Needle.  Over the few days that we were in town we visited most of these sights.  Views from the Space Needle were unbelievable.

Beautiful view from the Space Needle with clouds sitting perfectly above the horizon

My favorite Chihuly exhibit

Marymoor Park
One aspect that I love about Seattle is how pet-friendly the city is.  This park has an extensive trail that allows dogs to run around unleashed through different terrain like woody areas, open grassy areas,  and over giant mounds.  Anthony's dog, Buddy, loves his trips to the park and this time, he made many new friends.

Buddy, king of the hill

Other highlights include:
1. Ivar's Seafood- went there with some college friends.  Loved the fish prepared in a local style.
2. Chinatown- had delicious ramen, bubble tea, and peaches.  The park had a pingpong table.
3. Capitol Hill- went to Capitol Cidar for some delicious cidar and fun with shuffleboard.  Accidentally aided the other side with one too many points.
4. Nighttime walk through Gasworks Park and Fremont.  Climbed to the top of the hill for unbeatable nighttime views of the city lights.  Enjoyed looking at the hipster shops of the streets of Fremont.  Stopped outside the huge Oktoberfest.