[travels] Istanbul. Not Constantinople.

Ever since we learned about the splendor of the Byzantine empire in US history, I have yearned to visit Istanbul to experience the beauty for myself.  Modern day Istanbul is a very touristy place, and historic sites are clustered in Old City, making it very easy for the tourist to see the major attractions.  Three days is not nearly enough time to see all of Istanbul, but we sure tried our best.  We visited beautiful mosques, palaces, and even an underground cistern.  We took a ferry ride down the Bosphorus River to the Black Sea, leaving from the European side and landing on the Asian side.  We soaked in the culture from watching the whirling dervishes to taking a famous Turkish bath.  We enjoyed treats, like Turkish Delight, baklava, and stretchy Turkish ice cream (complete with show).  I took too many pictures to pick, so I've compiled some of my favorites into a video.

Turkish Bath

Bath houses were an important component of social life.  Not only could you unwind in the hot steam, relax with an olive oil massage, or clean up with an exfoliating scrub from your bath attendant, but you could also catch up on gossip.  It was a place to be seen.  It was common to visit at least a couple of times a week, and with all the offerings, I think I would have liked to just live there.  We visited a traditional Turkish bath to experience the offerings for ourselves.

Turkish Ice Cream
Not only is the ice cream delicious, but it comes with a show.  Here is a video of me trying to get my ice cream.  As a chemical engineer, I was also intrigued by the viscoelastic properties of this stretchy treat.

...more to come...

Israeli Summer: Adventure Weekend

So we're mobile pretty much every weekend, but this is the first weekend that we've had a car.  Having a car in Israel is an especially liberating experience; we are no longer tied down to the Egged bus schedule nor restricted by Shabbat.  Israel is such a small country, that even 500 km (restriction set by Avis) was enough to get us across the country (width-wise), twice!  We used this weekend as an opportunity to explore the Golan Heights and the Galilee.  We saw 2 of the 4 Holy Cities in Israel, Tiberias and Safed, leaving only Hebron (since we had previously visited Jerusalem).  Nazareth and Bethlehem are also considered holy cities for the Christian faith, so check and check!  We went hiking down to a waterfall and jumped great distances into deep pools along the way.  On the other extreme, we visited very artsy villages and purchased gifts for loved ones back home.  Oh, and beer tasting in the Golan Heights was a top notch way to wind down after a hot sweltering hike.

Ein Hod
Ein Hod is an artists village just south of Haifa.  Strolling through this quaint little town you'll find lots of flowerbeds, sculptures, and open workshops (go earlier in the day for more options).  Our first stop was a pottery studio, run by an American, because she had the best signage.  We were directed to her studio almost as soon as we entered the town.  We also visited her husband's antique book shop and Ms. Silver's photography shop.  Ms. Silver is a celebrated expert on Israeli photography, unfortunately we did not have much time with her as she was running out to catch a concert in Tel Aviv.  We had dinner at the Ein Hod Cafe where they were having Indian night, a pleasant break from hummus and pita.  The community is very friendly and relaxed, and seems like a very pleasant place to live.  Also, the cats roaming around Ein Hod are the plumpest that I've encountered around Israel.

Ein Hod Cafe

Tiberias
Tiberias is one of the 4 holy cities in Israel, it is situated on the Sea of Galilee (more like a lake, if you ask me).  The Sea of Galilee is important to the Christian faith because it's where Jesus did much of his ministry and performed miracles, like walking on water.  Modern day Tiberias is a large sprawling city.  The Old City is home to a few churches.  It has a nice promenade alongside the water with a host of restaurants and souvenir shops.  Other than that and the tombs we passed by, there was not much to see.  But the drive along the water into and out of Tiberias is beautiful as you see the city sprawling up into the hill from the sea.

Sea of Galilee, as seen from Tiberias

Nazareth
Nazareth is Jesus's hometown.  There we visited the Basilica of Annunciation.  This is where the Angel Gabriel told Mary that she would bear God's child.  The basilica was beautiful inside and out.  Outside, the white stone walls rose majestically and the Crusader flag blew proudly in the wind. Inside, there were mosaics from around the world, depicting the annunciation, as well as beautiful stained glass windows.

Basilica of Annunciation

Qatzrin and the Zavitan River
The following morning we headed out early to Qatzrin, the capital of Golan, for our hike. The drive through the Galilee into the Golan Heights is beautiful, and the landscape changes within the blink of an eye.  One second you can be looking at lush greenness, and the next you're looking at desert.  My poor navigating led us on a detour north, but we got to Qatzrin in due time.  We passed by the small city of Qatzrin in search for the Zavitan River.  Upon finding the trail head, we hiked along the river.  Enroute to the deep pools we encountered interesting flora and fauna.  We saw cacti next to leafy trees.  We saw long streams of ants carrying things 100 times their size.  We even saw a large family of what looked like gophers dash across the path in front of us!  The trail was long and hot, so getting to the deep pools and jumping in was a relief and a lot of fun.  I started out with the lower rocks and did baby jumps into the water, but after much coaxing (and watching little boys jump from much higher), I graduated to the higher ledge.  From there we hiked a bit more down to the falls.  The hike back to the car was hot and miserable, and we were running dangerously low on water.  We were like the walking dead by the time we got to the car, and we guzzled cold water to the point of brain freeze at the nearest gas station.  But we survived to tell the tale.

Upper Zavitan River.

Safed
Safed (Tzfat in Hebrew) is another one of the four holy cities in Israel.  It was the site of an important victory during the War of Independence and where Kaballah, Jewish Mysticism, was founded.  On a Saturday afternoon, Safed is a quiet town for Shabbat.  The community is predominantly Jewish, moreso than other cities in Northern Israel, because the Muslims fled during the War of Independence.  You see families taking their babies for a stroll and kids playing hand-games and football by the schoolyard.  Young boys lounge on the grassy hills and young girls chatter as they walk along the sleepy streets.  There is a calmness that seems to have settled upon the city, and it makes me somewhat envious.  In the US we put so much pressure on ourselves to constantly be productive that we constantly rush to get to some destination, never stopping to appreciate the little things in life.

View from Safed.  You can see the Sea of Galilee in the distance.

In the center of town, there is a large park, called the Citadel.  Atop the Citadel there is a memorial to commemorate the soldiers who had lost their lives.  Many (Birthright?) groups stop here to reflect and enjoy the view.

In memory...

I eavesdropped on a group of Americans as their tour guide read passages from The Prince.  He also shared one quote from St. Augustine that speaks to me:

People travel to wonder at the height of the mountains, at the huge waves of the sea, at the long courses of rivers, at the vast compass of the ocean, at the circular motion of the stars; 

and they pass by themselves without wondering.

For more pictures, see my facebook gallery.

Israeli Summer: Zikhron, Akko, and Rosh Hanikra

This was the first weekend, since arriving in Israel, where I wasn't traveling across the country.  It was nice to relax and actually explore Haifa, and nearby areas.

Zikhron is a town half an hour south of Haifa by train.  Outside of the town there is an extensive nature reserve with a beautiful botanical garden.  In this garden lies the tomb of Baron De Rothchild.  He was a strong supporter of the Zionist movement, and his support helped lead to the establishment of Israel.  He was known as a great benefactor to some, and as a slave-driver to others.  The quaint town of Zikhron is home to many wineries and a cute center filled with people looking to escape from city-life for a few hours.  We just did a quick walk through, but it definitely warrants another visit.  In Zikhron, we visited MIT alums, who had recently made Aliyah.  

From the rose garden in Zikhron

Acre (Akko in Hebrew) is a town about half an hour north of Haifa by sherut.  Acre is surrounded by a magnificent sea wall, which once protected the people within.  It is fun to explore the winding streets, and to wander into the marketplaces.  Acre is one of Israel's oldest continuously inhabited cities, so it has a plethora of historical sites.  We visited the Jezzar Pasha mosque from the Ottoman period, and we visited the Crusader's citadel and tunnels from the Crusader periods. Acre is also famous for it's hummus, which definitely lived up to its praise.

Seawall in Acre

So Acre is actually the center of the Ba'hai faith, but their grandest shrine is located in Haifa.  The Ba'ahi gardens are so beautiful and extensive that they've actually become a symbol for for Haifa.  Looking up from the bottom, the thought of climbing all the stairs is somewhat daunting; the majestic stairs and perfectly manicured plants seem to go on indefinitely.  Atop the stairs sits the shine. I practically live next door to these magnificent gardens, but it wasn't until yesterday that I visited.  

Ba'hai Shine in Haifa

Rosh Hanikra is another 20 minutes north by sherut.  It is known for the magnificent sea grottoes, which we were able to reach by cable car.  The caverns were beautiful, and the incoming waves were soothing.  But unfortunately, we were not allowed to swim in the grottoes.  We walked out along the rocky shoreline in search of our own, and managed to find a small one.  Underwater, the rocky shore was lined with algae growth, making the floor slippery but soft.  There were also deeper pools, which allowed us to immerse otherselves in the otherwise shallow water.  It was fun bobbing as the waves rushed in.  Rosh Hanikra is also on the Lebanese border, making the entire area a military zone, which explains why swimming in much of the area of off limits.    

Jackson stands in pool, while Esme and Kenny sit on water.

For more photos of this weekend, check out my facebook album.

Israeli Summer: MISTI Weekend

   This past weekend was the MISTI seminar.  For those who don't know, MISTI stands for MIT International Science and Technology Initiatives.  It is a program that connects students to international opportunities to expose them to the global workplace.  For the past few months I've been placed at the Technion (think MIT of Israel) to do research in the Chemical Engineering department. But I digress.
   The weekend was packed from early morning to late at night with tours, speakers, and exploring.  For me, it was also an emotional weekend as I came to understand more about the Holocaust and the Arab/Israeli conflict.  So here goes a long entry taking you through the sights that I saw and the thoughts that I thought.

Kesariyya Beachfront
The weekend started off in Caesarea (Kesariyya in Hebrew).  We arrived at the Caesarea train station a couple of hours before we were expected (don't blame us for wanted to leave work early!) It was not the most welcoming place as it is located in the middle of an industrial complex.  Being the adventurous college students that we are, we decided to walk from the train station to the hotel.  This was a terrible idea because the distance between the industrial complex to the beachfront hotel was essentially a long stretch of highway with little shoulder.  Luckily for us, we hardly got out of the complex before we were picked up by a kind gentleman.  After dropping our luggage off, we were beach bound with cameras in hand.

Sunset and seashells

   The Caesarea beach is beautifully adorned with a plethora of seashells that glistened in the setting sun.  Mothers were scurrying after their energetic toddlers and the youth were paddle surfing in the tiny waves.  There were ledges that extended out far into the water, which kept the water shallow, inviting us to walk into the water and get splashed by the incoming waves.  A young girl saw us walking and greeted us with a cute bow and a "Ni Hao".  Our new friend and her dog, Lady, taught us how to avoid the rocks along the ledges so that we avoided "ouchie ouchie".
   For me, one defining thing about the beach was the tremendous coal-fired power plant.  This particular plant generates most Israel's of electricity, which is an important part of a discussion to come.


Kesariyya National Park
Our walk that evening ended when we stumbled upon the ruins of Caesarea National Park.  The unexpected find excited me, and I ran around as excited as if I were the first to discover the ruins.  The next morning we went on an actual tour of Kesariyya National Park, and to my surprise we entered the park via the same questionable route taken the night before.  It was fascinating to learn about the history of the area through all the different periods and to tie it back to the AP World History tidbits that I managed to remember.

Druze Hospitality
For lunch, we visited a nearby Druze village.  The Druze are a group of Arab people who practice their own religion.  The people regularly welcome visitors into their homes to learn more about their culture.  We enjoyed a fine meal of hummus, pita, eggplant and other delicious dishes accompanied by sweet tea.  In general, the experience led to a lot of questions about the religion and unsatisfying answers, which left me unsettled.  Though we were not able to identify with the religion, this visit started the conversation about the different religious groups within Israel and the conflicts that we have come to hear about.

Tech
Outside Tel Aviv, we visited companies and were exposed to Israel's entrepreurial spirit.  As a treehugger, I was looking forward to going to a Better Place.  Better Place's vision is a world where traditional cars are replaced by electric cars.  Their goal is to achieve their vision by building charging stations for everyday use and switching stations for those longer drives.  Their business model is impressive, as is their marketing. 
   But does it provide for a Better Place?  Sure, there are pros.  Emissions are now concentrated to power plants that are easier to regulate (compared to millions of cars on the road).  No exhaust means the air we breath is cleaner.  But unless the energy mix for electricity generation changes from predominantly coal and natural gas, we're just hiding our footprint.

Image courtesy Rand, 2007. 
Electricity generated is 69%  from coal. 
More recently, natural gas has probably replaced some of the coal.

Western Wall during Shabbat
That evening we arrived in Jerusalem and made our way to the Western Wall for the start of Shabbat. I had never realized how joyous an occasion Shabbat actually is.  There were people praying and chanting and dancing!

Busy before Shabbat

Bethlehem
The next morning, we had some time off, and we took this as an opportunity to visit Bethlehem.  It was a quiet border crossing into Palestine by taxi, and we were dropped off near a giftshop where we were picked up by a tourguide who showed us the Church of Nativity. (Of course the tour ended back at the giftshop...)  This church was built over the stable where Jesus was born and is comprised of the Catholic component, the Greek Orthodox component, and the Armenian component.  The three were vastly different, but I appreciated different elements in each.  I like the intricate light fixtures, and the incense, and the mosaics. We were not allowed to enter the stable because there was a special ceremony going on and viewing was limited as the church had a special guest.  We later found out that this special guest was the ex-President of Romania when we saw her leaving with her entourage and body guards.

Israel Museum
The Museum celebrates the history of the land and the artwork throughout that history.  It contained an impressive collection of artifacts that were laid out in excellently planned exhibits which took us chronologically through time.  The Israel Museum is also home to the Dead Sea Scrolls which contain the text for the Torah. The modern architecture is stunning and the sculpture garden is also worth checking out.

Holocaust Museum
The Holocaust Museum was also well designed.  Everything from the architecture to the floor plan was meaningful.  The main walkway is triangular with the walls closing in at the top. This is to symbolize the oppression and how trapped the Jews felt.  The display winds along chronologically from the seeds of antisemitism, to the ghettos, to the death camps.  Near the end, there is a room for the heroes of the Holocaust.  At the end, the walls open out and you can step outside into fresh air and take in a scenic view of Jerusalem.  The very presence of the State of Israel is the greatest victory that the Jews can hold over the Nazis.

The Final Scene

   This particular museum touched me unlike any previous Holocaust Museum that I have been to.  It not only presented the cold hard numbers and described the dispicable conditions of the camps, but it humanized the entire period with personal accounts and other anecdotes.  The tour guide also reminded us that there were decisions to be made by several parties, and when presented with those questions, I always asked myself how I would have responded.  I will share two anecdotes that defined my experience. 
   The first is about a girl and her doll, Leta.  This young girls mother was helping smuggle Jews out of Poland, so she had to leave her daughter in hiding.  As she leaves, she reminds her daughter to never open the door unless she speaks the code: A mother never leaves her child.  When she realizes that it is no longer safe, she sends a friend to get her daughter.  The daughter takes much convincing to leave her hiding spot, but the friend eventually coaxes her out and hides her in a sack, carrying her as if she were a bag of coals.  A short while later the girl starts screaming, wanting to go back.  The friend is confused, but opens the bag to question why she is attracting attention to them.  The girl responds I left Leta, A mother never leaves her child.  We must go back for her.  And they did. 
   The second anecdote is about a survivor.  A lot of couples were married shortly after being rescued in a desire to return to normalcy.  One particular lady got married and soonafter started feeling ill.  She went to the doctor and found out that she was 3 months pregnant.  Her response was terror.  Doctor, I can't have this child.  Please abort it now.  I can't stand to hear the screams of a child at night any longer.  When the doctor replied that he would not do the abortion, if she couldn't pay, she tried extreme methods to self-abort.  Luckily her measures failed and she gave birth to a healthy baby boy. I prayed that he would stay healthy.
   Our trip to the museum was followed by a talk by a Holocaust scholar.  She spun a beautiful narrative combining her years of knowledge, her mother's survival anecdotes, and some fiction to tie loose ends together.  This talk helped me get into the minds of the Jews, and it saddened me to realize that the Jews intially blamed themselves for the Holocaust.   


Understanding the Arab/Israeli Conflict through Mifgash
The Hebrew word Mifgash literally translates to encounter, and that is what we did to understand the different positions in the conflict.

Armymen
On Sunday night we had dinner with soldiers in the Israeli army.  Citizens are required to serve in the military after high school (boys for 3 years, girls for 2).  There are exceptions for Hacidics and Arabs, but for the most part, everyone does it willingly because it is a rite of passage into the real world.  No service, no job. 
   It was interesting to interact with them because mostly everyone in the army is our age.  We bonded over our family lives, and hobbies, and even pop culture. 

Arab woman
Monday morning we had another mifgash, this time an Arab woman spoke to the entire group.  She told us about her experiences living as a Muslim in Israel and how she felt discriminated against, but stays for her family and her love of the land. She was able to answer all of our difficult questions and it was a rather eye-opening experience.  She was saddened by the association of the Muslim religion to terrorists acting in the name of Jihad ("Striving in the way of God").  We are peaceful people.  Bombing buildings and other acts of terror is not Jihad.  Explaining about the Quran and helping people understand us is.
   Comic relief came when a male asked why women dressed so conservatively and covered their hair. Woman are sexy, and YOU are not. We must cover ourselves because our beauty is a gift that we only want our husbands to see.  When we are around only women, we like to show off.

Obviously the conflict is deep rooted and more complicated than I can imagine.  I will not attempt to reconcile the politics in my head, but I think understanding the people is a good start. 

Golan Heights
Sunday morning we toured the Golan Heights.  We visited a fort to learn about how the area was militarily significant.  From the top of the volcanic rock, we could see the vast expanse to the Syrian border.  Scouts could easily detect military activity and mobilize the Israeli army and reserve forces.  Lacking this resource would be disastrous for Israeli defense.

View of Golan Heights Looking Towards Syrian Border

Rapid
Rafting down the Jordan river was the perfect way to end the weekend.  The river was very calm, and "falling" into the cool water was very refreshing.  Rafts were toppled, boats were commandeered, and splash wars ensued.  And we even hit a rapid!

Visit my facebook gallery to see more photos from this weekend.

Israeli Summer: Weekend of Little Sleep

Sleep deprived is not an unfamiliar state, but here goes a post about the extraordinary things we did through lack of sleep.

I'm on a Boat

   Wednesday marked the last day of classes at the Technion, and what better way to celebrate than on a boat leaving from Haifa Port.  The view of Haifa from the water was beautiful, unfortunately we saw little as technical difficulties prevented us from leaving the dock (more disappointing than Boos Cruise).  The DJ remixed familiar tunes and the bartenders served vodka generously from a bottle with a squirt nozzle (the ones that dispense the same amount each time you push on the nozzle, like for hand sanitizer)

White Night

   The arts came to Tel Aviv this Thursday for White Night.  It was a music celebration found in different pockets around town.  In the main square, you found people with headphones; they were all tuned to the same station so they all listened and danced to the same beat. The reasoning behind this was to encourage the shared enjoyment of music in an environment where others could still converse freely.   It was amusing to watch people sing along.  

   In other pockets of town, we found drumming sessions, and local bands, and artists doing covers (and a man dressed as a jellyfish...)  The streets were lively with people watching the Eurocup, enjoying food at different establishments, and of course the free music.  Art galleries were also supposed to be open, but we only came across one.  There were wild parties and swing dance sessions along the beach.  The festivities went on all night, but our crew turned in early to catch the early bus to Ein Gedi.

Ein Gedi: Desert Oasis and Waterfalls

   We caught the early bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem.  I have never fought so hard to get on a bus in my life.  Everyone was up against one another as the horde of people struggled to fit through the narrow bus door.  After securing a seat, we all fell asleep.  We made a transfer at Jerusalem, and headed towards the desert.      

   First stop was Ein Gedi, the desert oasis.  We hiked up the beautiful trails to see David's Waterfall.  It was no Victoria Falls, but it was amazing to see such lush greenness and flowing water in the desert.  Wading in the water was relaxing and cooling in the heat.  Once we hit the top, we turned off the falls trails, and headed towards the Ein Gedi Oasis.  This involved hiking in the beating sun up the side of the mountain.  We came across a small patch of green with a small pool (more like puddle) and took a break.  Hikers that arrived shortly after informed us that we had arrived at the Ein Gedi Oasis.  Considering that Ein Gedi is a large bottled water company, I was underwhelmed by the oasis, but it was beautiful nonetheless.  We continued hiking through the desert to get to the Ein Gedi Kibbutz.  This kibbutz dispelled the image in my mind that kibbutzes were solely agricultural communes.  This particular kibbutz housed a beautiful botanical garden and a hotel and spa.  We enjoyed a fine lunch there before taking a sherut to Masada.

View atop Ein Gedi

Masada

   Needless to say, it's difficult to get around the desert without a car.  On Shabbat, it's near impossible, so we relaxed at the Masada Guest House, which have been our most comfortable accommodations by far. We ate like kings at the "all you can eat" dinner, and rested early in preparation for our hikes up the mountain.  The 4am wake-up call was not the most pleasant start to the day, but it was necessary to hike up the mountain in time to catch the sunrise.  The hike was grueling, with a lot of steps and loose rocks, but at least the sun was not beating down on us.  Once at the top, I situated myself on a wall on the Eastern side and waited for the sun to rise.  The sun rising over the Dead Sea and salt dunes was a magnificent sight and slowly lit up our surroundings, helping us appreciate the Snake Trail, which we had just hiked up. 

   But there was more to see atop Masada, for on this rocky plateau, there had once been a palace and fort.  It was fortified by Herod the Great as a refuge in case of a revolt.  It was overtaken by Jewish rebels and the myth is that when the Roman army came to lay siege, Masada's some 900 inhabitants committed mass suicide. Now it is a World Heritage Sight.  

   Walking around, you can only see the ruins, but you can imagine the splendor of the palaces and bath houses and churches.  Walking to the North Face, turning the bend into the palace, you are dazzled by the view of the sun streaming in and the vast expanse of desert on the horizon.  

   We returned from Masada in time to be the first patrons at breakfast.  We enjoyed a traditional Israeli breakfast of colorful salads, fruits, yogurts, and cereal.

Sunrise atop Masada

Dead Sea

   The Dead Sea welcomes you with warning signs.  Do not drink the water, do not dunk your head, do not swim for more than 15 minutes.  Sounds like unnecessary warnings, but you come to understand why.    

   The shore is rocky and covered in salt deposits.  You can even pick up hot salt rocks.  Walk into the water and sit back is the proper way to get your float on.  It is quite amazing how much more buoyant you are.  Floating is effortless, in fact, more effort was used trying to settle lower.  Water in your mouth is a terrible experience; the taste and sensation of the extreme saline solution is unbearable.  Even worse is water in your eyes, which stings and temporarily blinds you.  This in conjunction with the 41+ temperature probably justified all the warnings. 

Getting back

   After our wonderful desert adventures came the biggest adventure yet.  Sheruts do not run in the desert on Shabbat, so an expensive taxi was becoming an attractive option to get back.  But hitchhiking is a cheaper and viable option.  We situated ourselves at the bus stop next to two fellow hitchhikers.  As they were there first, we did not compete with them for rides.  We waited patiently, and found out that they had been there for a couple of hours.  They eventually landed rides, so Esme and I were next up.  We were down on luck for a while, but the situation got worse when a crew of 6 boys situated themselves 20 feet in front of us and started hitchhiking as well.  We got sympathetic waves from people in cars, but the sketchier looking boys were ruining our chances as people were unwilling to stop.  We eventually landed a ride to Tel Aviv, so the girls headed off.  The boys have their own crazy hitchhiking stories because they had to go back to get Kenny's cellphone at the Hostel (long story), but that's their tale to tell.  

All in all, I would do it again!

For more pictures, check out my facebook album.