Israeli Summer: Weekend of Little Sleep

Sleep deprived is not an unfamiliar state, but here goes a post about the extraordinary things we did through lack of sleep.

I'm on a Boat

   Wednesday marked the last day of classes at the Technion, and what better way to celebrate than on a boat leaving from Haifa Port.  The view of Haifa from the water was beautiful, unfortunately we saw little as technical difficulties prevented us from leaving the dock (more disappointing than Boos Cruise).  The DJ remixed familiar tunes and the bartenders served vodka generously from a bottle with a squirt nozzle (the ones that dispense the same amount each time you push on the nozzle, like for hand sanitizer)

White Night

   The arts came to Tel Aviv this Thursday for White Night.  It was a music celebration found in different pockets around town.  In the main square, you found people with headphones; they were all tuned to the same station so they all listened and danced to the same beat. The reasoning behind this was to encourage the shared enjoyment of music in an environment where others could still converse freely.   It was amusing to watch people sing along.  

   In other pockets of town, we found drumming sessions, and local bands, and artists doing covers (and a man dressed as a jellyfish...)  The streets were lively with people watching the Eurocup, enjoying food at different establishments, and of course the free music.  Art galleries were also supposed to be open, but we only came across one.  There were wild parties and swing dance sessions along the beach.  The festivities went on all night, but our crew turned in early to catch the early bus to Ein Gedi.

Ein Gedi: Desert Oasis and Waterfalls

   We caught the early bus from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem.  I have never fought so hard to get on a bus in my life.  Everyone was up against one another as the horde of people struggled to fit through the narrow bus door.  After securing a seat, we all fell asleep.  We made a transfer at Jerusalem, and headed towards the desert.      

   First stop was Ein Gedi, the desert oasis.  We hiked up the beautiful trails to see David's Waterfall.  It was no Victoria Falls, but it was amazing to see such lush greenness and flowing water in the desert.  Wading in the water was relaxing and cooling in the heat.  Once we hit the top, we turned off the falls trails, and headed towards the Ein Gedi Oasis.  This involved hiking in the beating sun up the side of the mountain.  We came across a small patch of green with a small pool (more like puddle) and took a break.  Hikers that arrived shortly after informed us that we had arrived at the Ein Gedi Oasis.  Considering that Ein Gedi is a large bottled water company, I was underwhelmed by the oasis, but it was beautiful nonetheless.  We continued hiking through the desert to get to the Ein Gedi Kibbutz.  This kibbutz dispelled the image in my mind that kibbutzes were solely agricultural communes.  This particular kibbutz housed a beautiful botanical garden and a hotel and spa.  We enjoyed a fine lunch there before taking a sherut to Masada.

View atop Ein Gedi

Masada

   Needless to say, it's difficult to get around the desert without a car.  On Shabbat, it's near impossible, so we relaxed at the Masada Guest House, which have been our most comfortable accommodations by far. We ate like kings at the "all you can eat" dinner, and rested early in preparation for our hikes up the mountain.  The 4am wake-up call was not the most pleasant start to the day, but it was necessary to hike up the mountain in time to catch the sunrise.  The hike was grueling, with a lot of steps and loose rocks, but at least the sun was not beating down on us.  Once at the top, I situated myself on a wall on the Eastern side and waited for the sun to rise.  The sun rising over the Dead Sea and salt dunes was a magnificent sight and slowly lit up our surroundings, helping us appreciate the Snake Trail, which we had just hiked up. 

   But there was more to see atop Masada, for on this rocky plateau, there had once been a palace and fort.  It was fortified by Herod the Great as a refuge in case of a revolt.  It was overtaken by Jewish rebels and the myth is that when the Roman army came to lay siege, Masada's some 900 inhabitants committed mass suicide. Now it is a World Heritage Sight.  

   Walking around, you can only see the ruins, but you can imagine the splendor of the palaces and bath houses and churches.  Walking to the North Face, turning the bend into the palace, you are dazzled by the view of the sun streaming in and the vast expanse of desert on the horizon.  

   We returned from Masada in time to be the first patrons at breakfast.  We enjoyed a traditional Israeli breakfast of colorful salads, fruits, yogurts, and cereal.

Sunrise atop Masada

Dead Sea

   The Dead Sea welcomes you with warning signs.  Do not drink the water, do not dunk your head, do not swim for more than 15 minutes.  Sounds like unnecessary warnings, but you come to understand why.    

   The shore is rocky and covered in salt deposits.  You can even pick up hot salt rocks.  Walk into the water and sit back is the proper way to get your float on.  It is quite amazing how much more buoyant you are.  Floating is effortless, in fact, more effort was used trying to settle lower.  Water in your mouth is a terrible experience; the taste and sensation of the extreme saline solution is unbearable.  Even worse is water in your eyes, which stings and temporarily blinds you.  This in conjunction with the 41+ temperature probably justified all the warnings. 

Getting back

   After our wonderful desert adventures came the biggest adventure yet.  Sheruts do not run in the desert on Shabbat, so an expensive taxi was becoming an attractive option to get back.  But hitchhiking is a cheaper and viable option.  We situated ourselves at the bus stop next to two fellow hitchhikers.  As they were there first, we did not compete with them for rides.  We waited patiently, and found out that they had been there for a couple of hours.  They eventually landed rides, so Esme and I were next up.  We were down on luck for a while, but the situation got worse when a crew of 6 boys situated themselves 20 feet in front of us and started hitchhiking as well.  We got sympathetic waves from people in cars, but the sketchier looking boys were ruining our chances as people were unwilling to stop.  We eventually landed a ride to Tel Aviv, so the girls headed off.  The boys have their own crazy hitchhiking stories because they had to go back to get Kenny's cellphone at the Hostel (long story), but that's their tale to tell.  

All in all, I would do it again!

For more pictures, check out my facebook album.

Israeli Summer: Tel Aviv

Our Tel Aviv weekend was action packed from the start.

   Action packed meaning scurrying around the bus station, trying to figure out how to get to Tel Aviv University further north.  We see the info kiosk and I show the attendant the map on my phone.  "How do we get there?", I point.  "Buses don't go near there" is her response.  Frustration.  Several more stopped, disgruntled travelers later, we are directed back to the same attendant at the info kiosk.  This time we have a surefire stop.  "How do we get to Ramat Aviv Gamel?", I ask. "Oh, simply take the 105, and then transfer to the 171 at the mall." Two buses and two blocks later, we find ourselves by Tel Aviv University, where we meet up with Ani and Emily, fellow MISTI students.

The first night we went crazy.  And by crazy I meant we paid 50 NIS to go clubbing.  There was dancing, loud music, and napkins thrown into the air that fluttered down.  That was it.  So much for crazy nightlife.

The following morning we embarked on the walking tour of Tel Aviv.  Here is the route.

   We started off with the Palmach Museum, commemorating the soldiers from the Israeli Independence War. I equate the Palmach to Minutemen of the American Revolution.  Freedom fighters that were not always the best equipped, but served with great passion for their Zionist goals.  We missed the tour, but were able to see the extensive photo gallery free of charge.  Here we found an impressive record of the different troops and expeditions.  We were lucky enough to meet one such solider who served, and he showed us his section.  We saw photos of him before and after his injury and heard his account first hand.  The Palmach played another important role in Israeli history, similar to those volunteers who comprised the Underground Railroad.  These brave soldiers helped Jews escape from the German concentration camps.  While the end goal was Israel, most were detained by the British, but most found their way to Israel after Independence.  It was a very touching way to start the morning.

   Next on the agenda was the famous Tel Aviv boardwalk.  After walking down California-esque streets lined with hotels and palm trees, we stumbled upon a ritzy part of the boardwalk.  We found an upscale farmer's market that embodied the feel of Whole Foods and enjoyed fresh fruit juice!  From there, we continued down the boardwalk first observing fancy people eating brunch, and regular beachcomers further down.  

   Stops along the way included a yummy lunch at a cafe, shopping in the antiques shuk, and eventually meeting up with the rest of the group (who slept in) at the giant Tel Aviv shuk.  The antiques shuk had a lot of hidden gems from the Russian army, alongside other not so interesting tidbits.  I enjoyed perusing the uniforms, regalia, and equipment.  The Tel Aviv shuk reminded me of Canal Street in Chinatown, NYC. 

   Back to the boardwalk, we powered on to Old Jaffa.

Sun setting over Old Jaffa

   On Friday, I turned 22.  Yikes.  I was sad that I couldn't be back to celebrate with friends and family, but I had a fantastic time with the MISTI group.  Kenny purchased the most awesome cake ever, and assembled a photobook with messages from friends back home.  I can't thank him enough for making my day so great!

[Corresponding photos here]

Israeli Summer: Water Envy

   Israel is HOT.  But that's ok when that gives you more of an excuse to go to the awesome beaches and pools.

   We went to the beach for the Technion's International Student BBQ at Students Beach.  It was a nice opportunity to meet the other international students (aka American students) and eat veggie dogs with hummus and our other cross-cultural concoctions.  After dinner, we went for a dip in the ocean.  The temperature was just right.  The shore curved less steeply, so we were able to stand out further.  We relaxed, rolling with the waves, watching the colorful sunset.
   But back to the beach, the layout is fantastic.  You have well-maintained sandy beaches, with umbrellas and other permanent shade set up.  Further up, you have grassy patches and a boardwalk aligned with eateries selling smoothies, fresh juices, and ICED COFFEE. (Note: Israeli Iced Coffee is the most delicious thing I have ever drank.  It's like a DD Coffee Coolata, but so much better!)  Along the beach, you will also find areas for table-less ping-pong (aka beach paddleball) and areas with exercise contraptions and pull-up bars.

Paddleball!

Sunset

  I went to the Technion's pool for the first time yesterday, and it was love at first sight.  Their 50 meter indoor pool has skylights that let in streams of light.  After swimming for 1000 meters, I decided to give myself a break and ventured outside.  Stepping out was like stepping out into vacation.  There was a kids pool with beach chairs set up. And to the right was a 25 meter pool with an awning that blocked out the harsh rays, but still let in the right amount of light, surrounded by beach chairs.  I found one, and just laid down to read, letting the cool breeze dry me off.

Israeli Summer: Jerusalem

   So this past weekend, the crew headed up to Jerusalem.  From the Hof Hacarmel station, we bussed to the Central Bus Station in Jerusalem.  We headed off in search of our hostel, only to find that we had gone off in the wrong direction.  Making the best of our mistake, we took a nighttime tour of the government buildings.
   Take two, we taxi to the Jaffa Gate and wander through the most magnificent mall I have seen.  Thursday nights are very busy with families and friends out to dinner.  In Old City, we encounter the festival of lights.  It was a brilliant display of lights in every which way.  There was a dome of light, and cool fixtures from above, and lights along the walkways.  The one downside was that the most direct route to the hostel was blocked off to clear Old City.  After asking several individuals for directions, we saw the glorious Citadel Hostel sign.
   We had booked the tent rooms on the hostel website as they were the cheapest option.  After we checked in, we were ushered up to the roof.  No tents were in sight, but there were pads on the floor.  It dawned on us that we were sleeping on the roof with no covering over our heads.  The night was surprisingly and uncomfortably cold.  But we were troopers, and the beautiful sunrise and view made the night worth it.  We were within sight of Dome of the Rock and had a birds eye view of all of Jerusalem.

   Starving from the previous nights adventures, we went out in search of breakfast.  We settled on pastries at Sam Booki, which is quickly becoming our favorite place to eat.  Everything there is freshly made in the back.  There is a huge selection, and everything is affordable.
   The first destination was the Western Wall (also known as the Wailing Wall).  I believe this wall is the oldest standing structure in Jerusalem, and was also given the name Wailing Wall because people come to the wall to pray (wail?).  It was a very conservative sight, so those exposing too much skin were given wraps.  The fervor with which people prayed was moving.
   But the sun beat down incessantly, so we moved into the small walkways of the Jewish Quarters.  The walkways are quiet in the morning, but as time passes, they become more and more lively as vendors open shop and people start perusing.  Different streets have distinct odors, some of spices, some of flowers, and some less wonderful.
   The Mount of Olives is our next destination.  We take the lazy way out and taxi to the top.  Here we see a magnificent view of the city.  We start walking down and encounter the Garden of Gesemene.  We reenter the Old City through the Zion Gate.
   The Jerusalem Shuk is a bit of a walk from Old City.  We walk alongside the new tram and stop frequently for froyo (deliciously tart!) and water.  We hurried along because we were informed that it closed at 2:30.  But it was still very crowed even though we arrived late.  Stand after stand sold fresh fruits, veggies, nuts, spices, and even meats.
   Things started shutting down in the afternoon for Shabbat.

Dome of Light

Hostel View

Picturesque View of Jerusalem

Random Trip Tidbits
Clubs (according to a German tourist)
"You meet a boy.  You talk real loud.  You find a corner and smoochi smoochi. It's fun!"

Lady at the Hostel
Is an archaeologist, excavating at a site in Ashkelon.  Digs up human bones and attempts to do facial reconstructions.  ==> Conclusion: She is like a real life BONES!

Israeli Summer: Haifa

Shalom!
I am comfortably situated in Haifa, Israel, where I will be living for the next 10 weeks.  Haifa is the third largest city in Israel, situated on a hill next to the Mediterranean Sea.

My Frontyard

Boston Public Gardens